I think everything else is either lazy/ignorant or a compromise. Only the bare hex-swage and B-crimps dependably and repeatedly do that. You didn’t read what I wrote.Ī proper crimp isn’t merely a crushed barrel with some mechanical retainment. Wire lugs are closed barrel.Ĭlick to expand.Whatever. Open barrel terminals are usually used for connector pins. Mine is very similar to the Wirefy Crimping Tool Set 8 PCS found on Amazon. I use an older Ancor tool, which is different from what Ancor currently sells. The non shrink die makes 2 crimps of different sizes, (called double crimp) and the shrink connector die makes only a single crimp, and is designed to not damage or tear the heat shrink insulation. If you use the wrong die, you will not have an ideal crimp. They will usually also have a die for open barrel. In particular, the die for shrink terminals is hard to find. So look for a Crimper with a selection of dies, and make sure it has those three. There are different dies for terminals with shrink and and non-shrink terminals, and for non-insulated terminals. You need to use the right sized terminal for the wire, and the right die for the terminal. Now I just need to get this place to start buying more appropriate terminations and cord sets for the application but that's a different rant.įor up to at least 10AWG, and sometimes 8, you don't need a hydraulic crimper. Normally the wire breaks long before this ever pulls out. This is also normally the side away from the body of the connector.Īgain ignore the poor placement of insulation (and upside wire) Should be a more snugly placed against the barrel of the crimp. When done right, seam opposite the indentor. Sometimes it's neat, sometimes it splits. So this is why orientation is important when crimping these kinds of small terminations.Īt any other angle it's hit or miss. So the next thing I see them do is try to re-crimp it: Most people know not to leave it that way. (This one was also used to illustrate incorrectly putting insulation into the crimp - ignore that!) I see my guys do this nonsense all the time and half the time they just leave it that way.Įven when squeezed as hard as they can this wire will still pull out in short order. Please note that none of this would be appropriate for a marine environment, however the results of the crimp can be similar. I also intentionally crimped them wrong way around on the wire for the sake of photos. This is for a low voltage limit switching application that our setup guys need to deal with often. I used crappy old uninsulated terminals we weren't using anymore and intentionally used slightly undersized wire. I happen to have the photos I took for this document handy. We kept having the wires pull out when crimped that way using their cheap crimpers they have in their tool boxes. I actually had to write a procedure for my guys here at work due to this. Most (all?) of these "open end" barrel type connectors have a seam in them and if you crimp down on this seam with the "indentor" side of the tool it often splits it open for a weak crimp. I assumed this is what some folks are calling "closed" and is what I prefer, but I'm not sure if they're available in smaller sizes. There is another type of "closed" end connector that seals the end of the wires from the elements. These come in insulated and uninsulated types and the insulated ones like this should use special crimpers designed with insulation in mind. By closed I mean as shown above with a barrel that goes through. The crimper would make things so much easier, but I just won't have much use for it, $300 definitely not worth it for me.The only thing is would add here is to watch out with the "closed" type and the "indentor" style crimp tools. And there are also other circumstances which make this solution not ideal. The downside is more connections obviously, which are the weak points. I guess I'll just go with pre-assembled, but still, I wasn't able to find them in 8AWG tinned copper of such length, so I'll need to buy a few chuncks to make 30m length. Wait, I forgot, there are, but they cost more than my pannels. Honestly, it's just such a pain: there is 8AWG wire for sale, even pre-assembled with connectors, but there are no crimpers if you want to crimp by yourself. Wire length should be 30m, which gives me like 6.5% voltage drop, which is too much. I'll have just one 22.4V VOC pannel (I am going to have two of them connected in series actually, but those are portable design and there will be situations when only one will be used, so counting for a lesser voltage), 7.59A ISC. In my situation 10AWG would be a bit too much of voltage losses. Click to expand.Well I am just looking to crimp some MC4-like connectors to 8AWG wire.
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